My Time in the Ocean

On January 16, I drive to one of my favorite spots to surf the incoming swell. It was just starting to break in the afternoon. I saw it rise. As I go in, it starts to pick up a bit more.

I took some waves but the locals were grabing most of the good ones. Which is ok, they are the locals. You most be respectful of everyone. Or Karma will hit you in the hind end. Then no waves for a period of time. Nothing….. I was bumped.

But then, in the horizon….. we all saw a whale getting closer and closer to us. The whale then vocalizes and makes a call. It then blows lots of water and makes a splash with the tail fin. What was exciting is that, after this event, there was some water movement toward us. An approximately 6 feet perfect glassy wave was going to break were I was.

The locals said…“Tirate! (aka: Go for it!)“.

Then I paddle hard and drop in. I get to be on this beautiful hollow wave. The best one! A gift from nature. Thanks whale!